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Puglia, Italy: all you can eat
There are many lovely things about the Masseria, in particular the endless places scattered around the grounds to sit or read – all kinds of benches and sofas and daybeds and little tables and lovely views. There is an underground billiard room, and in another cavern-like room I had the best yoga lesson of my life. The vegetable and herb garden is abundant and pretty: rows of herbs, chilli peppers, tomatoes, aubergines and fruit – figs, lemons and plums – a hammock strung beguilingly between almond and pomegranate trees. On my first morning I took a walk through the immaculate little planted rows, past the gardener mending his bicycle and a white donkey and two goats, and on towards a small riding arena, and then climbed over a drystone wall and got lost among the endless olive groves, shimmering with early morning dew.
Puglia is famous for its food – there are 200 types of pasta, and traditionally they eat raw fish – which is largely why we came. My husband, Ralf, is a cook and my children (11 and 15) love food, so we were here to eat and to cook and to eat what we cooked. Our first evening was a very promising sign of things to come. Supper began with intriguing hors d'oeuvres including barattieri, a local vegetable shaped like a fat courgette and tasting like a cross between cucumber and melon. The children chose a starter of Parmesan custard with mushroom and bacon (there is no children's menu here, a good thing, but the staff will cook something special if necessary). There were plates of shellfish – clams, oysters and mussels, with lumps of pecorino cheese; there was violet prawn risotto, tuna carpaccio with avocado ice and strawberries, broad bean purée, tuna steak and countless other delicious dishes and delectable wines, including a magnificent local primitivo wine. I loved how the waiter would tip your white wine into a freshly iced wineglass when the previous one became warm. Then there were the puddings – sorbet millefeuille and chocolate mousse with oranges from the Masseria, pistachio crumble with lotus figs and lemon custard – until we had to surrender. 'Is it going to be like this every night?' whispered my son in awe, and indeed it was.
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