Jinx Kern's draw is deeper than the barbecue
Jinx Kern (Photo by Cramer Photo)“There have been few culinary experiences in my life that have quieted, humbled, and thrilled me with [their] utter perfection, but Jinx’s pork did all of those things,” wrote New York food blogger, Chichi Wang, somewhat hyperbolically, after a trip to Jinx’s Pit’s-Top Barbecue in 2010. “Like true love, the experience of the sandwich left me quite certain that it would be a long time before I could feel anything tantamount to the pleasure I experienced on that summer afternoon.”
What kind of pork inspires a love letter? Or should Ms. Wang’s note have been addressed to Jinx himself, the Quixotic figure behind the high counter, 60 years old with a ’50s side part and a wolfish grin?
I set out to answer that question by trying to understand why Jinx has gotten so much attention since he opened his little barbecue shack on Market Street a decade ago. Southern Living, USA Today, Maxim, and The Wall Street Journal have all touted his business, comparing it to national barbecue institutions like Dreamland and Rendezvous. Locally Edible Blue Ridge, The Hook, and a whole passel of food bloggers have sung his praise. All this attention for a business that’s open for lunch only, has one employee, and serves 20 people on an good day.

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